Inverarnan
(39.5 miles / 63 km) – Where Walkers and Ghosts Meet
After battling the twists and turns of Loch Lomond’s rugged shoreline, you’ll finally arrive in Inverarnan, a welcome sight after what is arguably one of the toughest sections of the West Highland Way. The path here has demanded every ounce of focus, with its rocky outcrops, tree roots, and uneven terrain slowing progress. Many walkers arrive exhausted, aching but triumphant, having conquered one of the most technically challenging stretches of the trail.
The reward? A chance to rest at the legendary Drovers Inn, a place so full of history, charm, and the occasional ghost story that it has become a rite of passage for those walking the West Highland Way. Dating back to 1705, this iconic coaching inn has been a stopping point for weary travellers for over 300 years. Walk through its doors, and you’ll be greeted by low-beamed ceilings, roaring fires, and walls adorned with quirky taxidermy and historic relics.
Some claim it’s one of the most haunted places in Scotland, with ghostly sightings and strange occurrences frequently reported. Whether you believe in the supernatural or not, the atmosphere is unique—equal parts eerie and inviting. If your legs feel battered from the last section, a dram of whisky from their well-stocked barmight help numb the pain and warm you up for the next stage of your journey.
A Well-Earned Rest and Refuel
Inverarnan isn’t just about ghosts and history—it’s also about food, drink, and recovery. After miles of strenuous hiking, the chance to sit down with a hearty meal is bliss. The Drovers Inn serves classic Scottish fare, from haggis, neeps, and tatties to venison stew and giant portions of fish and chips. For many walkers, this is the first truly hot and filling meal since leaving Milngavie, and it feels like a well-earned treat.
Accommodation in Inverarnan is available at the Drovers Inn, but there’s also a nearby camping site and bunkhouse for those who prefer a more budget-friendly option. If you’re stopping overnight, expect a lively atmosphere, as the Drovers Inn is a popular gathering place for walkers sharing stories of their adventures so far.
What to Expect on Arrival
By reaching Inverarnan, you’ll have covered nearly 40 miles (63 km) of the West Highland Way, marking the transition from the lochside trails to the wilder landscapes beyond. This is a significant milestone, and many walkers pause here for proper rest, to recharge, and reflect on their journey so far.
Physically, expect to feel the effects of the lochside terrain. Your legs will likely be sore from the constant climbing, descending, and scrambling over obstacles, and many walkers report that this is where blisters and muscle fatigue start to catch up with them. If you haven’t already, this is the perfect time to check your feet, reapply blister plasters, and give your legs some well-deserved stretching and care.
Looking Ahead – The Trail to Tyndrum
Leaving Inverarnan, the West Highland Way shifts in character. Gone are the dense woodlands and tricky lochside paths—instead, the trail opens into expansive Highland scenery, offering a newfound sense of space and grandeur. This stretch towards Tyndrum is 12.5 miles (20 km), a manageable but steady climb that takes you through rolling hills, open moorland, and the remains of historic military roads.
For many walkers, this section feels more straightforward than the rough path along Loch Lomond. The trails become broader and more forgiving, allowing you to pick up the pace without constantly watching your footing. Walking, you’ll pass old farm ruins, rushing rivers, and breathtaking views of the towering mountains ahead.
One of the highlights of this section is the Falls of Falloch, a stunning 10-metre-high waterfall, just a short detour off the main path. If you have time and energy to spare, this is a fantastic spot to pause and take in the beauty of the Highlands.
Wildlife and Scenery
As you press on towards Tyndrum, the landscape changes dramatically. You’re now well and truly in Highland territory, with towering peaks, vast moorlands, and dramatic glens replacing the dense forests of the previous days. This section of the trail is also prime wildlife-spotting territory—keep an eye out for red deer grazing in the distance, golden eagles soaring overhead, and even Highland cattle wandering the open fields.
Compared to the claustrophobic lochside paths, this part of the walk feels liberating—the sense of space and scale is genuinely awe-inspiring. You’ll start to feel the Highlands wrapping around you, bringing a new level of excitement for the days ahead.
Practical Tips for Inverarnan
Take care of your feet – after Loch Lomond, blisters are common, so check your boots and socks before heading on.
Stock up on supplies – there are limited options between here and Tyndrum, so ensure you have enough water and snacks.
Look out for The Falls of Falloch – a short detour from the main trail, but worth it for a stunning waterfall view.
Prepare for a change in terrain – after Inverarnan the trail becomes more open and exposed, so be ready for stronger winds and more variable weather.
A Transition Point in the Journey
Inverarnan represents more than just another stop along the West Highland Way—a symbolic transition point. You’ve conquered the tricky lochside section and pushed through some of the hardest terrain, and now the Highlands truly begin to reveal themselves.
Ahead lies Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy, and Rannoch Moor—some of the most breathtaking landscapes in Scotland. But for now, rest up, enjoy the warmth of the Drovers Inn, and prepare yourself for the next exhilarating stage of your journey. The best is yet to come!
➡ Distance to Tyndrum: 12.5 miles / 20 km
