Balmaha
(19 miles / 30 km) – Hello, Loch Lomond!
Balmaha marks an exciting turning point in the West Highland Way. Having conquered Conic Hill, you are now greeted by the stunning eastern shore of Loch Lomond, a landscape that will accompany you for the next phase of your journey. From here, the scenery transforms—rugged, remote, and increasingly wild as you continue northwards towards Rowardennan and beyond.
Balmaha is a quaint, picturesque village, an ideal spot to take a breather and prepare for the more challenging terrain ahead. There is a small village shop, The Oak Tree Inn and their coffee shop, making it the last good place to stock up on supplies before entering one of the more isolated stretches of the walk. If you need extra snacks, water, or any last-minute essentials, this is your opportunity as facilities become increasingly sparse.
If you have time, consider a short boat trip to Inchcailloch Island, a peaceful retreat in the middle of Loch Lomond. Part of the Loch Lomond National Nature Reserve, this tiny island offers woodland trails, stunning lochside views, and even an ancient burial ground. It’s a fantastic way to experience the quiet magic of the area before pressing on with your walk.
Leaving Balmaha, the trail hugs the shoreline, leading you through wooded glades, rocky outcrops, and gentle inclines that offer fantastic views across the loch. While this section is relatively straightforward, the terrain becomes more demanding as you approach Rowardennan, with steeper sections and uneven paths appearing more frequently.
Rowardennan – The Last Stop Before the Wilderness
Rowardennan is the final point of road access on the eastern side of Loch Lomond, meaning from here, it’s just you and the trail. The settlement itself is small but offers a chance to rest and refuel before tackling the increasingly rugged lochside terrain ahead. Limited accommodation is available, so many walkers either rest briefly or push forward into the more challenging section towards Inversnaid and Inverarnan.
This is also the starting point for climbing Ben Lomond, one of Scotland’s most popular Munros (mountains over 3,000ft). If you have the time and energy, the 8-mile (13 km) round trip to the summit provides stunning panoramic views across Loch Lomond and the surrounding highlands. However, it’s an arduous climb that requires extra time, so only attempt it if you have plenty of stamina left!
Beyond Rowardennan, the trail changes dramatically. The terrain becomes more difficult, with sections of uneven ground, steep inclines, and twisting, narrow paths that can slow progress. This is widely regarded as one of the toughest parts of the West Highland Way but also one of the most rewarding.
You’ll pass through ancient oak forests, along rocky shorelines, and through hidden coves, occasionally stumbling across secluded beaches where you can take a quick break and enjoy the views. The remoteness here is part of the charm as you become fully immersed in Scotland’s rugged, untouched beauty.
For those seeking shelter, the Bothy offers a basic place to rest or escape bad weather, though many push on to Inverarnan, where a hot meal and well-earned rest at The Drovers Inn await.
Practical Tips for Balmaha & Rowardennan
Stock up at Balmaha, the last good shop before more remote sections.
Take a short boat trip to Inchcailloch Island for a peaceful escape.
Be prepared for rough terrain beyond Rowardennan – the lochside path is slow-going.
Consider climbing Ben Lomond if you want to add an extra challenge.
Take advantage of rest spots – a few easy exits once you leave Rowardennan.
By reaching Inverarnan, you’ll have tackled one of the West Highland Way's most challenging but most rewarding sections. The journey through Balmaha and Rowardennan sets the tone for the wild beauty ahead, preparing you for the rugged heart of the Highlands that awaits. Keep pushing forward—the adventure is just beginning!
➡ Distance to Inverarnan: 13.5 miles / 22 km
